The menu may look simple at Sasu Laukkonen’s Lilliputian restaurant on a quiet side street just south of the city centre. But the sparse descriptions such as "roots and malt" mask a sophisticated take on superbly sourced local provenance. Highlights include helix of potato with porcini mushrooms, five cuts of lamb with purée of smoked celeriac, and a knock-out dessert of espresso-infused dark chocolate. There’s just a handful of tables here so it’s advisable to book in advance.

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