Beautiful joyous clothes, British history, gender bending and optimism as the weak pound sparked enthusiastic buying – that was London Fashion Week.
Burberry’s blockbuster dominated with see it, buy it, high craft historic uniforms, ruffles and silk pyjama coats for both sexes. More uniform at Mulberry, with its interpretation clubby, schooly and tweedy. At Erdem historic beauty in seventeenth century shipwreck meets iconic photographer Jacques Henri Lartigue’s 1920s Deauville girls, “strong in their fragility”.
Tudor history in quilted leather and puff sleeves from JW Anderson, whose homespun dip-dyed linens have an earthy innocence, as do Simone Rocha’s full-blown blooms and white broderie anglaise (shown in a cathedral) and Christopher Kane’s shredded, scribble-stitched knits, beaded dresses pierced with metal rings and Crocs with crystals.
Sheer joy in Peter Pilotto’s gipsy mix of gold lace, gingham and bright embroidery, and in Temperley’s lovely 1970s summer riot. Contrasting calm with Roksanda’s controlled, easy pieces in earthy, sunny shades and Anya Hindmarch’s pastel coats with leather 1970s circles motifs like her bags. And subversion from Marques’Almeida with an oversized, 1980s-influenced reminder of London’s street-style heritage.
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