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Spring/Summer Styles

From sheer to shimmer, a look the standout trends from the London, Milan and Paris S/S 18 shows

Altuzarra
Burberry
JW Anderson
Each x Other
Isabel Marant
Philosophy
Isabel Marant
Prada
Sacai
Tod's

 

It's transparent

From completely sheer (Chanel boots and hats) to translucent veiling everywhere – Burberry trench coats, Alberta Ferretti parkas, Giorgio Armani pant suits, Altuzarra black mesh, to completely sheer over specially designed underwear in stripes at Dior, big knickers at Miu Miu, plastic as rain capes at Burberry or as belted coats at Anya Hindmarch.

 

In the Trench Coat

Unequivocally the season's coat shape and no longer plain. Tattoo-printed at Burberry, subtly embroidered at Etro, looped up at Céline, in blue leather at Valentino, deconstructed with corsets and feathers at Maison Margiela, cut out in gold at Alexander McQueen.

 

Domestic Goddess

Humble household inspiration for high fashion. Irish-linen tea towels at JW Anderson, rubber gloves (in patent) and mops (as fringing) at Christopher Kane, cutwork tablecloths at Fausto Puglisi, macramé pot holders at Loewe, textured table runners at Altuzarra, buttoned cushion bags at Anya Hindmarch and Maison Margiela. But you'd never guess.

 

Twenty-Four-Hour Shine

Sequins for any time. Sunglasses are needed to gaze on all-sequin playsuits at Dior, flared gold-sequin trousers at Halpern, loose silver trouser suits at Each x Other, stained-glass-effect brilliant dresses at Dolce & Gabbana, outsize sequin sweatshirts at Gucci.

 

Pure White

The summer's non-colour but every shape appears in it. Beautifully detailed dresses in mixed textures and decoration, at Simone Rocha, Roksanda and Ryan Lo, but see also utility 1980s jumpsuits (Isabel Marant), pleated draping (Vionnet and Aalto) and Elvis-style studded leather (Bottega Veneta).

 

Modestism

Long lengths and higher necklines look graceful and of the moment. Best in minutely pin-tucked dresses at Jil Sander or in antique-look brocade at Erdem. Hints of the Handmaid's Tale, two by two at Philosophy, with coifs and Puritan necklines at Preen, hood-like straw hats at Missoni. Valentino started it, and still there in nun-like necklines.

 

Short and Shorter

Blame Mme Macron. Paris now thinks all ages will embrace the mini, but the mutton look is best avoided. For skinny pins only – near-indecent poufs at Saint Laurent, sequin tunics at Dior, fringed tweed and denim at Chanel, studded or lamé 1980s frockettes at Isabel Marant.

 

Still in the 1980s

The decade that taste forgot will not go away. See the surprisingly believable one-shoulder dresses and utility sports styles at Isabel Marant, broad-shouldered, cartoon-print tailoring at Prada and big shirts with pencil skirts at Balenciaga. There is also a glitzier slant – tuxes with leggings at Saint Laurent, lamé pleats and thigh-high slashes at Halpern.

 

Decon-recon

Clothes that can be worn three ways (Balenciaga), dresses with mismatched fronts and backs (Marni), fitted jackets with floating backs and sleeves tied as bows (Sacai), sweatshirts patched together as dresses (Loewe), embroidered frock coats with satin boxer shorts (Louis Vuitton) and strapless trench dresses with feathers and harnesses (Maison Margiela) – 1990s-style unlikely mixes are back.

 

Sports Luxe

Parkas and hoodies turn up in unlikely places, subtly shaded at Valentino, in baked-earth techno-fabric shades at Alberta Ferretti, in metallic leather at Tod's or Brunello Cucinelli, in patchwork print at Anya Hindmarch, velours at Fyodor Golan, burgundy satin at Versus. All of them more luxe than sports.

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