Couture Week Jewels

In a break from tradition, high jewellery designers show privately in Paris – not publicly at the Biennale in September – amping up the exclusivity. Here’s a glimpse at what was on show.

Boucheron. Rock crystal and large, unusual stones like morganite or onyx make spectacular pieces in Claire Choisne’s latest collection, 26 Vendôme, which celebrates the historic brand’s codes. Epitome of chic.

Damier cabochon bracelet

Damier cabochon ring

Hôtel Particulier earrings

Hôtel Particulier ring

Lys Radiant brooch

Lys Radiant necklace

Nara the deer ring

Plume de Paon ring

Vendôme chromatique ring

Vendôme chromatique necklace

Images: Boucheron

Bulgari. Favourite themes, including the Diva trumpets, Serpenti and unexpected colour clashes interpreted in bold new pieces which are surprisingly light and always flexible, shimmering with movement. The pearls are an unusual move.

Mediterranean Eden Serpenti necklace

Roman Heritage Parentesi necklace

Roman Heritage Parentesi body necklace

Mediterranean Eden Serpenti bracelet

Mediterranean Eden earrings

Italian Extravaganza necklace

Italian Extravaganza ring

Italian Extravaganza Diva’s Dream earrings

Mediterranean Eden Fiore allegro necklace

Italian Extravaganza Divas’ Dream Eleganza necklace

Images: Bulgari

Chanel. A wheat theme – a Coco Chanel favourite – proved motif for the year, with others too. Done most sumptuously here, with more colour than Chanel is wont to include.

Brins de diamants ring

Brins de Printemps ring

Épi Vendôme ring

Impression de Blé earrings

Brins de Printemps bracelet

Champs de Blé bracelet

Moisson de Perles bracelet

L'Épi brooch

Moisson d'Or necklace

Moisson de Perles necklace

Images: Chanel

Chaumet. An exquisite mix of antique and modern style. Complex, beautiful symbolic designs, extraordinary stones. Based on nature and Chaumet’s signature love thereof. Most artistic floral depictions in Paris, and the aformentioned wheat.

Blé Offrande ring

Chêne ring

Laurier ring

Laurier Longues ring

Images: Chaumet

De Beers. London architecture-inspired collection that ups the craft levels and shows virtuosity of different cuts of top quality diamond, from enormous to small but sparkling due to expert cut.

Thames Path earrings

London View earrings

Thames Path necklace

London View necklace

Elizabeth Tower necklace

Battersea Light necklace

Albert Bridge necklace

Albert Bridge bracelet

Images: de Beers

Dior. Inspired by Versailles and taken from small decorative details like swagged curtain ribbons and tassels, mirrors and chandeliers. Interesting asymmetry and use of treated metals. Great colour combos and handwork.

Salon d'Apollon necklace

Salon de Vénus Saphir Rose ring

Ruban Rubis earrings

Guirlande Saphir Rose ring

Fontagne Saphir Rose necklace

Fontange Saphir Rose earrings

Chambre du Roi necklace

Appartements de Mesdames Balustrade ring

Appartements de Mesdames Arabesque ring

Appartements de Mesdames Alcôve ring

Acanthe Saphir Rose ring

Images: Dior

Giampiero Bodino. Richemont’s in-house design genius refines his favourite themes with amazing richness of colour combinations, wealth of rare stones and aesthetic daring. Not for shrinking violets.

Tesori del Mare necklace

Rosa dei Venti earrings

Passamaneria ring

Mosaico bracelet

Images: Giampiero Bodino

Graff. Arriving in the home of high jewellery, the London coloured diamond specialists have several openwork pieces showing great prowess and a new interest in emeralds.

Yellow and white diamond necklace

Beaded emerald and diamond necklace

Beaded emerald and diamond necklace, close up

Beaded emerald and diamond earrings

Images: Graff

Louis Vuitton. The most accomplished collection so far in craft terms from LV’s high jewellery division. Based on unusual stones and daring colours, includes enamel and guilloché work.

Blossom ring

Blossom earrings

Blossom necklace

Blossom ring

Blossom bracelet

Blossom earrings

Images: Louis Vuitton

Mellerio. France’s oldest jewellery house does a cocktail ring collection to celebrate upcoming exhibition at Musée d’Orsay. Daring colour schemes and rare stones - Padparascha sapphires, huge aquamarines, lacquerwork.

Porto Ercole ring

Paratii ring

Livadia ring

Goa ring

Cape Cod ring

Nosy Be ring

Images: Mellerio

Messika. Diamond specialist’s cascading earcuffs, two-finger rings and three-row necklaces of different cuts distinctively edged with pavé have both youth appeal and serious high jewellery sparkle.

Solena Maya earcuff

Hera necklace

Calypso earcuff

Cassiopée double ring

Images: Messika

Piaget. Sunny Side of Life - exuberant collection, over 120 pieces, celebrating summer glamour, colour and craftsmanship, from goldsmithing to featherwork. Plus some amazing stones including big Paraiba-type tourmalines.

Sunny Side of Life earrings

Sunny Side of Life necklace

Sunny Side of Life manchette

Sunny Side of Life ring

Images: Piaget

Reza. Olivier Reza uses important stones - huge Ceylon sapphires, big carved emeralds - from his family collection, contrasting their softness with modern, geometric design. Spiral or Ribbon earrings embrace the lobes.

Ruban Saphir earrings

Delhéa bracelet

Dune Coque earrings

Dune earrings

Toi et Moi Spinelle ring

Dune ring

Areza Titan or Noir Spinelle bracelet

Images: Reza

Tiffany. Designer Francesca Amfitheatrof gives new pep to a traditional house – openwork “disco ball” rings, baguette pink sapphires paired with diamonds to give shading, interesting vintage-style pearl combos.

Tiffany Masterpieces ring

Tiffany Masterpieces pendant

Tiffany Masterpieces necklace

Tiffany Masterpieces earrings

Tiffany Masterpieces clip

Images: Tiffany

Van Cleef & Arpels. Eméraude en Majesté empties the brand’s long-held hoard of extraordinary emeralds, plus new ones, all chosen on quality. None more magisterial than giant cabochons with sapphire, or mystery set baguettes.