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Watches to Watch

Drawing the eye with exquisite complications and beguiling craftsmanship, we present our picks of the latter-2015 shows

1. Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 Image: Vacheron Constantin
2. Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi "Year of the Monkey" Image: Chopard
3. Bell & Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon Image: Bell & Ross
4. Girard-Perregaux 1966, 40mm Steel Image: Girard-Perregaux
5. MB&F LM Perpetual Image: MB&F
6. Glashütte Original The Sixties Iconic Collection Image: Glashütte
7. Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time Image: Jaeger-LeCoultre
8. Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Tourbillon Image: Parmigiani
9. IWC Portofino Automatic 37 Image: IWC
10. Bulgari Papillon Tourbillon Central Image: Bulgari
11. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 "200th Anniversary F. A. Lange" Honey Gold Image: A. Lange & Söhne
12. Roger Dubuis Excalibur Star of Infinity Image: Roger Dubuis
13. Piaget Secrets & Lights Altiplano Eggshell Marquetery Watch Image: Piaget
14. H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Image: H. Moser & Cie
15. DeWitt Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon Image: DeWitt
16. Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Mosaic Elephant Image: Jaquet Droz
17. Richard Mille RM 63-02 Automatic World Timer Image: Richard Mille


1. Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955. A modern transposition of the brand's icon from the 1950s, its name refers to the distinctively shaped lugs.

Platinum case, sapphire crystal caseback, dark blue alligator leather strap, silvered opaline dial with sun-brushed external zones, manual-winding movement, small seconds at 9 o'clock, column-wheel chronograph

 

2. Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi "Year of the Monkey". Handcrafted in Japan in limited series by a master lacquer artist, this watch is dedicated to the Chinese zodiac sign for 2016.

Rose gold case, transparent case-back, alligator leather strap, dial crafted using the urushi technique, self-winding movement

 

3. Bell & Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon. The latest addition to the BR-X1 line combines a virile aesthetic with a grand complication, remaining faithful to the aeronautical inspirations so characteristic of the brand.

Titanium case, rubber and alligator leather strap, metal appliqué indices as well as skeleton hour and minutes hands with Superluminova inserts, manual-winding movement, flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock – limited to 20 pieces

 

4. Girard-Perregaux 1966, 40mm Steel. For the first time the legendary 1966 collection is available in steel. The new model features a clean design and sophisticated finish, flirting with the fine line between masculinity and femininity, classical and contemporary.

Steel case and bracelet, sapphire crystal case-back, self-winding movement, date at 3 o'clock

 

5. MB&F LM Perpetual. MB&F and independent Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell have completely reinvented the most traditional and complex of horological complications: the perpetual calendar.

Red gold case, alligator leather strap, manual-winding movement, perpetual calendar, retrograde leap year, power reserve indicator

 

6. Glashütte Original The Sixties Iconic Collection. A tribute to unforgettable designs of the 1960s, this collection comprise five models with dials in unique hues: Sixties Red, Sixties Golden, Sixties Aqua, Sixties Brown and Sixties Grey.

Sixties Red: stainless steel case, sapphire crystal case-back, alligator leather strap, dial with sunray finish, galvanized in gold, varnished in red and black with dégradé effect, self-winding movement

 

7. Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time. With the engraved continents and oceans displayed in blue lacquer, this timepiece is an open invitation to travel; an alluring combination of classic and sophisticated design.

Pink gold case, blue lacquered dial, alligator leather strap, self-winding movement, world time, true seconds

 

8. Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Tourbillon. The first Haute Horlogerie model from the Tonda 1950 collection is the result of two years of research and development at the Parmigiani Fleurier manufacturing centre and represents the world's thinnest automatic flying tourbillon with micro-rotor (3,4mm).

White gold case, black jade dial, Hermès alligator leather strap, self-winding movement, 60-second tourbillon

 

9. IWC Portofino Automatic 37. Originally launched in 2014, the 37mm case Portofino was dedicated to watch lovers with a taste for smaller timepieces. Building on this, the collection welcomes two new models – one with a blue dial and a blue leather strap, the other, a silver-plated dial and a raspberry-coloured leather strap – both with diamond-set bezels.

Stainless steel case with 66 diamonds, blue dial, blue alligator leather strap by Santoni, self-winding movement, date at 3 o'clock

 

10. Bulgari Papillon Tourbillon Central. A must-have for devotees of the complication; this new Papillon model incorporates the tourbillon into the very heart of the watch, the jumping hour display indicated by a disc which rotates beyond a 12 o'clock aperture.

Pink gold case, transparent sapphire back, alligator leather strap, hand-wound movement, flying tourbillon, minutes indication by patented Papillon device, jumping hours by disc display on ceramic ball bearings

 

11. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 "200th Anniversary F. A. Lange" Honey Gold. A tribute to Ferdinand Adolph Lange (founder of the manufacture), the first edition of this timepiece was presented at the beginning of 2015 and featured a platinum case. This second edition, presented in September at Watches & Wonders, comes in honey gold – an innovative, scratch resistant gold alloy with a soft honey tone.

Honey gold case, silver dial, alligator leather strap, manual-winding movement, small seconds at 6 o'clock

 

12. Roger Dubuis Excalibur Star of Infinity. Featuring the unique, star-shaped design of the brand's contemporary skeleton movements, this timepiece adds the natural radiance of diamonds to the mix.

White gold case fully paved with baguette-cut diamonds, alligator leather strap, manual-winding movement, double flying tourbillon

 

13. Piaget Secrets & Lights Altiplano Eggshell Marquetery Watch. The new Piaget haute design collection – Secrets & Lights – was inspired by two splendid and legendary cities: Samarkand & Venice. It comprises 93 jewellery creations and 38 timepieces, each of them expressing the high artistic craftsmanship and the technical know-how of the Maison.

Pink gold case, eggshell marquetry lacquered dial depicting a falcon, alligator leather strap, ultrathin hand-wound mechanical movement

 

14. H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds. The first model of a brand new collection designed to reinvent the sporty watch, mixing functionality and masculinity with understated elegance.

Red gold and black DLC-treated titanium case, argentè dial, appliqué indexes in red gold, hour markers in Superluminova, rubber strap, self-winding movement

 

15. DeWitt Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon. Produced entirely in-house, the treatment and finishing work of this piece are of a rare level of quality; a pure example of meticulous craftsmanship.

White gold case, alligator leather strap, mechanical and skeletonized hand-wound movement integrating a tourbillon and diamonds

 

16. Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Mosaic Elephant. Debuting the Asian art of eggshell mosaic – never before used in watchmaking – this surprising artistic skill involves the use of duck eggshell tesserae to produce a delicate motif on the dial.

Red gold case, dial with elephant motif in lacquered quail eggshell mosaic, onyx centre, alligator leather strap, self-winding movement. Limited to 8 pieces

 

17. Richard Mille RM 63-02 Automatic World Timer. Designed for frequent travellers, it features a rotating bezel that can be adjusted to select the desired time zone.

In satin-brushed and polished grade-5 Titanium with skeletonized dial, self-winding movement, oversize date at 12 o’clock, universal 24-hour time display

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