As Swiss heritage brand Bucherer is set to expand its top-end Masterworks concept to more boutiques, we speak with global associate director of haute horlogerie Olivier Gantenbein to learn how the Lucerne-based luxury retailer is attracting dedicated collectors and youthful new fans.
 
Departures: When and why did Bucherer create the Masterworks concept?

Olivier Gantenbein: We started a few years ago, focussing marketing campaigns on haute horlogerie models, then in 2022 we began dedicating luxury spaces to them, currently in eight boutiques. We want to highlight masterpieces of the watchmaking craft, as well as our expertise in explaining and advising on them. In the past two years, we have taken on ten niche brands alongside our more volume, top-end brands. These areas enable us to carefully curate and spotlight the very best pieces from both.

Olivier Gantenbein - Global Associate Director of Haute Horlogerie

How do you select pieces for these areas? Do you choose specific complication categories to highlight?

There are many complications represented by our brands, so we have a wide range to choose from, but to make it easier we focus on a small number and present a selection of examples from different brands. We are currently featuring perpetual calendars, tourbillons, openwork models and gem-set watches. We want customers to discover and experience true watchmaking masterpieces and offer them the opportunity to deep dive into fine watchmaking.

We normally have five to ten watches for each topic, and we rotate them around the boutiques, adding a new one when a watch sells. We currently find tourbillons and openwork dials sell fast. Eventually we will do a different set of topics. Complications are not necessarily familiar to all clients, and these displays are a way into fine watchmaking or to newer brands.  

What kind of environment have you created in-store for the Masterworks?

It’s not a closed-off area, but rather delineated by a calm, luxurious atmosphere with soft blue walls, warm-toned wood, a large table and comfortable chairs for consulting or having a relaxing chat, in addition to well-lit showcases and Masterworks signage so you easily know where you are. We welcome clients to wander in, browse, spend some time and ask questions.

Bucherer Zürich, Switzerland

Do you have special events for clients to meet each other, as well as experts from the brands and Bucherer?

Our goal is to be a meeting point that relaxes, heightens and slows down the retail experience, if you will. It’s about creating a community with a shared passion, so our experts pass on their knowledge and clients can exchange experiences, whatever their purchasing power. We arrange one-to-one meetings, perhaps with an expert from a brand, as well as slightly larger-scale events with invited clients, sometimes to see a new model pre-launch. There are also brand dinners so collectors can get to know the people behind the marque.

How does your niche brand clientele differ from clients for more established names, and how do you target them?

Younger clients generally want something new and different from the rest, something which not everyone has. Traditional collectors are now beginning to explore the field of avant-garde watchmaking, expressing interest in Ressence and Urwerk. By highlighting and curating a selection of these exceptional masterpieces, we surprise and inspire our customers.

Ressence Type 3

L`Epée Time Fast D8

CZAPEK & CIE Antarctique Rose Gold Blue

Urwerk UR-100V Light Speed

Hautlence BA80-ST00

Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit