Set in smack dab in the centre of town, not far from Munich’s central station, the local Geisel brothers have camouflaged their hip, upscale establishment as a simple wine tavern. Its dark woods and ceiling frescoes aside, what’s going on in the kitchen and behind the bar is far more ambitious than the decor lets on. While chef Frank Tauenhahn cooks up palate pleasers like rabbit back on hay-flavoured mashed potatoes, the sommelier team pours from 500 vintages with provenance ranging from Greece to Brazil.

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