The city’s popular ultra-fresh seafood institution Le Petit Commerce, recently taken over by chef Stéphane Carrade, now has a starry little sister. Downstairs in the cosy vaulted dining room, order from the ever-changing chalkboard menu scrawled on your slate table, then watch the spectacle in the open-plan kitchen. Expect wildly creative, delicate combos – foie gras with kohlrabi, blue lobster in a chocolate civet sauce, pineapple saffron French toast.

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