New chef Philippe Labbe’s menu is making this venerable restaurant more gastronomically alluring than it’s been in years with dishes like langoustines with raspberries, beets and lemon verbena – a starter – and a three-course riff on its famous fowl, the duckling, for which every diner receives an individually numbered postcard as a souvenir. Its legendary wine list, drawn from a guarded cellar stocked with stellar vintages, still shines brighter than ever, and its tables’ views of the Seine and Notre Dame remain a major draw.

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