A former coaching inn with a modernist streak and vestige of period touches, it features 14 beautifully conceived quarters and the of-the-moment cookery of Antony Ely, who heads up the kitchen with fuss-free concoctions like pan-fried Pollock served with petits pois à la Française, radishes, pancetta and new potatoes. Completing the picture, a generous wine list encompassing 400 different bottles and a considered menu of cask and bottled beers from around the world.

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