Securing a table at this bustling, no-booking joint is a ticket to paradise. Chef Al Brown’s first Auckland restaurant made a splash when it opened in 2011. The freshest oysters, clams and sashimi adorn the raw seafood bar; sliders and shared plates are rustic and satisfying; the wine list is small but respectable. If all tables are full, staff may suggest heading two doors down to Brown’s New York Jewish-style Federal Delicatessen – where an equally good experience will be had.

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Photo: Kieran Scott