Modish Mayfair teems with world-class art galleries, and, planted among them, The Square affords the opportunity for replenishment before the next exhibition. Under the direction of Yu Sugimoto until late last year, it is now helmed by Clément Leroy, who brings French flair to his minimal but mouth-watering offerings, sourced from artisanal suppliers.

Standouts such as the seared Orkney scallop marsala with hazelnut and green coffee bean, the John Dory (fish) with celery, sea urchin and lychee, and the four-weeks-aged Herdwick lamb match the refined simplicity of the interior, with tables positioned around a striking fabric figure of a woman designed by Kevin Beasley.

Diners who want more peace can find it in the 18-seat private room.

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Credit: Jean Cazals