The uniform of the waiters may include a kilt but that’s where the clichés end at this utterly original restaurant which has just expanded into what was a fairly dire Chinese restaurant next door. Designed by Michaela Kitchin, wife of head chef Tom, the new look features a giant fire place cum fish tank, Timorous Beasties wallpaper and a whole wall of silver birch trunks. The food is a celebration of the natural larder of Scotland. Make sure you leave plenty of room as portions are big enough to satisfy the most hardy of Bonnie Prince Charlie's troops; start with pig's head and langoustine rolled in cumin powder and follow with the ox served with potatoes, Parisienne carrots and shallot jam.

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