Mario Batali’s white walled townhouse seems to glow with warmth and bonhomie. There’s always a buzz inside this handsome old building and the food, whilst not cutting edge, is reliably comforting. Take your pick from a perfectly seared pork chop with artichokes and Cipollini onions or some velvety goose liver ravioli. There’s opportunities to explore the huge cellar too with many of the wines served by the quartino measure. Tables set close together, a constant crowd at the bar and a rock soundtrack don’t make this the space for an intimate tete-a-tete. But for sheer garrulous glam, you’d be hard pushed to find better in the city.