With its striking red-and-white exterior and fairy-tale spires, the Palacio Astoreca on Cerro Alegre is one of Valparaíso’s most iconic monuments. A recent $5m restoration has turned it into the city’s most indulgent boutique stay. The 23-room Relais & Châteaux hotel is equipped with a sleek spa and well-stocked library, while its chequered portico is an ideal spot for a sunset aperitif.  El Bulli-trained Spanish chef Sergio Barroso provides first-class cuisine in the restaurant Alegre. 

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