It’s a fine walk into the dining room of this newcomer, which resides at the massive former central police headquarters. Guests ascend a magnificent iron-rail staircase before being given a tasteful reminder of the building’s past – police insignia adorns the walls of the entrance. Once seated, there’s an opportunity to feast on chef Junno Li Zhen Long’s toothsome fare that references customs and delicacies from across China. Standouts include the Chiuchow braised goose and cuttlefish and his signature chrysanthemum “thousand cut” silken tofu in chicken broth – be quick for the latter though, that dish is limited daily.

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