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Noma 2.0

Seasonal sumptuousness at the returning king of cuisine

Credit: Jason Loucas
Credit: Jason Loucas
Credit: Jason Loucas
René Redzepi Credit: Jason Loucas
Credit: Jason Loucas

There are big changes at the reopened and relocated version of a Copenhagen classic often voted the world’s best restaurant. Helmed as ever by René Redzepi, this redux – housed across 11 buildings and kitted out in understated, rustic hardwood by David Thulstrup – promises to concoct dishes based on the season. In summer expect options abundant with Scandinavian plants, while meat lovers get their opportunity in the autumn, which is Noma’s game and forest period.

Seafood takes centre stage in late winter and spring, when the flavour really packs a punch. Standouts include salad with sea snail from the Faroe Islands with last year’s roses and stuffed queen clams from Northern Norway paired with roe and a blackcurrant wood fudge. Vegetarians and vegans can also rejoice: its non-meat menu is complete with the tastiest fresh produce plucked from the adjacent gardens and beyond.

 

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Credit: Jason Loucas

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