Adjacent to Bordeaux’s Opera House, this Philippe Etchebest-helmed eatery errs on the bistro side of things as an all-day quick-serving haunt of regional comfort food – in spite of its grandiose setting within the Grande Theatre, all gilded columns, crystal chandeliers and a lofty vaulted ceiling. Evolving throughout the day, proceedings begin with fresh brioche prepared by pastry chef Mathieu Robin for breakfast, leading to evening bites such as smoked Keta salmon tartare with courgette, cream cheese and lemon zest confit, via delicate pastries at afternoon tea.

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