Marta
Personal notes from Centurion Magazine's contributors worldwide
Scene
Set amid blocks of flats just around the corner from Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper, Marta is the kind of unpretentious restaurant with exceptional fare that everyone wants in their neighbourhood. But rather than the usual simple décor, the vaulted space with exposed bricks is outfitted with an eclectic range of furnishings – all of which are for sale – by neighbouring design boutique Rossana Orlandi.
Food and Drink
The daily changing menu is based on carefully chosen local seasonal produce, which namesake chef Marta Pulini crafts into simple, tradition-centred dishes like pork tenderloin with balsamic-infused baby onions and bream in a crust of black olives and potatoes with chilli – creations that are ably complemented by the 60-strong wine list that focuses on Italy.
Service
Pulini’s decades of experience in New York City and Europe include being named Dom Perignon chef, but all pomp and pantomime are gone at this humble 30-seater, where the relaxed service is prompt and personal and may include a tableside visit from the chef herself.
Standouts
The sabbiosa flourless tart with mascarpone cream is “an old recipe”, says Pulini, but one that will never go out of style – the light-as-air cake dissolves in the mouth with exquisite delicacy.
In Summary
Attention to detail that matches the most serious of restaurants, without any of the pretentiousness – ideal for a relaxed meal with friends or family. And whether you’re a design aficionado or aesthetic dunce, the neighbouring Rossana Orlandi gallery is worth a visit, one of the city’s most extraordinary spaces in a multi-storey former tie factory featuring both new and vintage pieces.
Date visited: September 2015
