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A Taste of Tenerife

From Michelin-star temples to humble farm taverns, the Canarian culinary scene is a destination unto itself

Il Bocconcino
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Any seasoned traveller knows that sun and sand, while important, are not the only ingredients for a perfect holiday. As soon as the seas have been snorkelled, the beaches have been strolled, and the mountainous hinterlands have been hiked, the stomach will start to grumble – and that’s when the best part of the journey begins.

 

On Tenerife, every meal is an opportunity to discover fresh new flavours and experience the natural and cultural wealth of this captivating island. Abundant sunshine, nutrient-rich volcanic soil and the bounty of the Atlantic Ocean combine with age-old culinary traditions and innovative new techniques to foster a gastronomic scene unlike any other in the world.

Haydée by Víctor Suárez

 

A Star-Studded Repertoire

 

For an isolated isle, Tenerife punches well above its weight in terms of epicurean allures. The island is home to no fewer than eight Michelin-anointed restaurants carrying a total of ten sought-after stars and offering a diverse array of culinary approaches.

 

Starting in the southwestern town of Arona, Taste 1973 at Hotel Villa Cortés puts local gastronomic history on display. Argentinian-born Diego Schattenhofer has spent the past 20 years in the Canary Islands, learning traditional Canarian cooking methods and riffing on them with his own unique style; the dry-aged fish and the trolly of local cheeses – over 50 varieties – are a must.

 

A few kilometres to the north in Costa Adeje, a number of gourmet delights await. Donaire is a recent inductee to the Michelin fold, serving up chef Jesús Camacho’s singular interpretations of Canarian dishes that blend technical ability with creative vision. Situated in a stunning glass-enclosed room at the GF Victoria Hotel, the ocean views that greet diners are almost as winsome as the meticulously plated dishes before them.

 

Meanwhile, local produce meets international influences at Nub in the nearby Bahía del Duque resort, where Italian chef Andrea Bernardi and Chilean chef Fernanda Fuentes-Cárdenas lean into their respective backgrounds at the same time as they showcase the fruits of the Canarian soil. The dining experience here is also an exploration of the restaurant’s distinct spaces: appetisers are taken on the terrace, the main is served in the dining room, and desserts are enjoyed at the bar.

 

Also in Costa Adeje, the esteemed five-star Royal Hideaway Corales Resort boasts an arsenal of four Michelin stars distributed among three of its elite restaurants: El Rincón de Juan Carlos, a two-star establishment led by sibling chefs Juan Carlos and Jonathan Padrón, who meld local ingredients with select fine products sourced from abroad; San Hô, an outlet for the phenomenal cuisine of Adrián Bosch and Eduardo Dominguez, fusing Peruvian, Japanese and Canarian elements; and Il Bocconcino, where Bolognese chef Niki Pavanelli puts his signature spin on contemporary Italian haute cuisine.

 

About an hour away, in Guía de Isora, M.B. – the island’s first two-star Michelin restaurant – is a sublime feather in the cap of The Ritz-Carlton Tenerife, Abama. Here, chef Erlantz Gorostiza faithfully implements the vision of Basque culinary legend Martín Berasategui to beautiful effect.

 

Finally, venturing back to Costa de Adeje, Haydée by Víctor Suárez is in the process of moving to the five-star Hotel Gran Tacande. This institution has been a leading light of contemporary cuisine in Tenerife, infusing Asian and Peruvian textures and aromas into island-based produce. Alas, visitors will have to wait to sample this fusion of flavours, as the restaurant will be closed until next May for the move.

 

Truly Traditional Dining

 

While the impressive gourmet dining scene is a point of pride for Tenerife, the island’s more humble culinary traditions are also worthy of a closer look.

 

No visit would be complete, for instance, without savouring the local specialty goat meat or a plate of papas arrugadas, wrinkled boiled potatoes served alongside spicy mojo rojo and tangy mojo verde sauces. Certainly try some gofio, too – this toasted flour of millet or corn finds its way into a variety of sweet and savoury dishes. Ultra-fresh seafood is, of course, a highlight of Canarian gastronomy, and stopping at a fisherman’s association for the catch of the day is an absolute must when travelling along the coast.

 

Tenerife also features ideal conditions for viticulture, blessed as it is with a sunny climate and sheltered as it is from the pests that have devastated vineyards around the world over the centuries. These ancient vines in their volcanic soil give rise to wines of outstanding character best savoured at their source: for a truly local experience, head to a guachinche restaurant.

 

Most often found in the north of the island, guachinches are rustic, honest eateries located right at the winery – often hosted in the winemaker’s garage or living room. So integral are they to the local heritage, these humble taverns are governed by a set of rules designed to preserve the traditions that have defined them for generations: the wine must come from the proprietary vineyard, and the food must be made primarily with ingredients grown by the owner or sourced from the region. These simple establishments won’t be found in any Michelin guide, but when it comes to authenticity, there’s no better place to tuck in.

 

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