Owners Daniel Humm and Will Guidara (who also run the stupendous Eleven Madison Park) said upon opening that they wanted to model their restaurant on the Rolling Stones. Thankfully, there’s nothing as affronting as “Keef’s” leather trousers on display here however. Instead, this is a hotel restaurant that succeeds at the oft-disastrous combination of haute dining in a more casual atmosphere. High end comfort food is the draw here. Amid a series of small dining rooms, designed in Belle-Epoque style by Jacques Garcia (don’t miss the bar which is held aloft by carved grey mahogany elephants), feast on the likes of lobster minestrone served with string beans, peas and garganelli and a show stopping suckling pig which comes with baby leeks and mustard seeds.

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Photo: Daniel Krieger