Entry through an unremarkable arcade belies the culinary surprises to come, and the warm service and degustatory adventures of Sidart. Owner Sid Sahrawat is slinging the pans, offering remarkable, confident degustation-only menus (five courses or nine) with optional wine matches. Obligatory foams and emulsions are present, but enhance an intricate dish rather than show off, and chefs regularly push the boundaries of what ingredients can do. Every Tuesday night, their in-demand Test Kitchen offers eight experimental courses for 80 NZD a head.

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