This much-lauded Marylebone hotel and restaurant still resonates with a modish, buzzy vibe, while serving superbly realised, on-trend dishes.
A lovingly restored Victorian Gothic former fire station complete with gated garden, the best seats are those around the bar area. From here you’ll be torn between watching the kitchen staff dance a manic, yet perfectly executed, polka around each other whilst dishes are prepared while also keeping one eye to see if that’s Idris, Lily or Benedict sauntering through the front door…
Food and Drink
On the menu since day one, the crab meat filled ‘Coronation’ doughnuts are the kind of sybaritic starter you wish you could eat in bed for an entire weekend. Dishes here are consistently inventive without ever overlapping into fiddly pretence. Stand outs include a steak tartare starter with chipotle, black truffles and chives and an unctuous roasted turbot main course with creamed leeks and Champagne beurre blanc. And let’s not forget the cocktails. There’s plenty of invention on the menu but, frankly, the classics win the plaudits: few places in London do a better wet martini than here.
The staff here are unwaveringly polite, utterly unruffable and have uncommon expertise in making ‘ordinary’ customers feel special and celeb customers feel at ease. It’s tempting to come here purely to people watch. Though, often, the most irresistibly glam things in the room are on the plate in front of you.
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