Newly acquired by the Four Seasons, this intimate hot spot remains unchanged. Prettily adorned with Cocteau-inspired frescoes, chef Didier Aniès excels both in Provençal classics and discretely exquisite modern creations. Highlights: the signature caviar and leek lasagna, freshly caught Mediterranean fish simmered in licorice and wild mushrooms, and a strawberry soufflé for dessert. Dining on the sprawling garden terrace on a balmy summer night conjures a heavenly old-world Riviera elegance of days gone by.

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