Since 1999, Martin Wishart’s eponymous restaurant has been dividing foodies north of the border, some of whom adore the inventive yet hushed reverie that a visit to his restaurant seems to demand; others wincing at the starchiness and the alleged parsimonious portion sizes. Whatever your view, Wishart is undeniably one of the most skilled chefs working in the UK right now. The food here is a velveteen eruption of flavours and poise with the seven course tasting menu taking in the cream of local progeny including Lodge Farm asparagus served with Orkney ham, parmesan and bone marrow and Gigha halibut with mango and passion fruit. Rarely has there been a more satisfying combination of that Auld Alliance between Scotland and France.

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