Taking inspiration from its name (“roots” in English) to track down organic ingredients from the locale, this Polanco linchpin wins the plaudits in its current incarnation. Still under the direction of Israel Montero and Alfredo Chávez (who originally opened the space as Kaah Siis), Raíz is perhaps the standout eatery of its kind in the district, evidenced in its sublime array of traditional Mexican creations twisted into postmodern forms. Expect disparate options on the tasting menus, from smoked-cod tostadas to Tarascan soup and beyond.

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