With soaring views out over the lochs, this is a hotel where bucolic Scottish fantasies of escapism come to bonny fruition. Belonging to the High Chief of the Clan Donald (no, not that Donald), this former hunting lodge doesn’t dazzle with its design but, like its surroundings, is sturdy without being overly patrician. Rooms are perfectly comfortable but the real draw here is in the living spaces and dining room. Scattered with family portraits the atmosphere is one of ripe bonhomie as guests gather for an evening to sample the Michelin starred cooking of Marcello Tully. A meal here has the zest and verve worthy of the best of the Scottish polymaths Napier or Macadam with standout moments including a Mallaig cod with caper and pesto and West coast scallops with warm roe mousse.